"WE TOLD YOU IF YOU DIDN'T FEED US, WE'D EAT HIM!"

I must put into print three telephone conversations I have had with people who have bought puppies in a hurry.

The first was from a lady who wanted to purchase a chocolate bitch puppy, she saw some advertised in her local paper and went along to view, the kennels were spotless and the two bitches with puppies appeared well cared for.  She was quoted a price of £450 but was then told these puppies were not Kennel Club registered, if they were, the puppies would have to be £550  (the price of registering a puppy with the kennel club is £12 at the moment).  When she did a little more investigating she found that the breeder had bitches registered in the names of family members and had bred her Kennel Club quota for this year as an unlicenced breeder - hence the puppies having no registration documents.

The second call was regarding a black dog puppy purchased as a family pet for £375.  The breeder made them sign a homemade "contract of sale" which stated that the puppy was not to be bred from and would be castrated at 6 months of age.  The lady's vet was reluctant to perform the operation as the dog is a very undersexed male and in his opinion did not need a castration.  The lady telephoned the breeder who became very abusive and treatened her with the Kennel Club and its Solicitors to get the dog back.  On further investigation it appeared that neither the Dam or the Sire of this puppy was in fact registered with the Kennel Club, therefore the puppy they purchased could not be registered either.  The Kennel Club said they would never have anything to do with this man's threats and advised the lady to take legal action of her own. 

My third call was also from a lady with a black dog puppy; her puppy is now 6 months old and she still has not received her Kennel Club documents from the breeder. This puppy has been very ill since purchase and the couple have already spent in excess of £400 on Vet fees.  On telephoning the breeder to inform him of the dog's condition and to request the paperwork again she was told the litter was not registered because the Dam was under 12 months of age when she gave birth, he said he bought her in whelp. When the lady's husband asked him why, he said he would do it again but this time lie about the bitch's age to the Kennel Club, so the next time he would be able to register them.  We believe he is now trying to sell further puppies from the litter and I have advised the lady to speak to the Kennel Club.

My point in telling you these three stories is that in my opinion people who have to advertise their puppies for sale in newspapers, shops etc. do so because they either have a lot of puppies to find homes for or do not have a waiting list - good breeders always have a list and will tell you how many people are waiting for their puppies. 

We are happy to pass on names of reputable breeders who are awaiting  puppies but alternatively contact the Kennel Club and ask for their local Breed Club Secretary's name and telephone number. She will have a list of reputable people, all club members who have or are expecting puppies.  Put your name down on their list and wait - I promise you it will be worth it in the end. 

10 POINTERS TO HELP YOU THROUGH

1. Always buy from a reputable breeder.
2. Once you have decided on the breed, talk to a number of breeders and if possible go and see dogs from their breeding at dog shows.
3. Speak to people who have purchased dogs from these breeders, find out about their temperament especially if introducing the puppy into a household where there are children or other pets.
4. Ask for a copy of the pup’s pedigree, certificates of hip scoring and eye testing, if these are recognised problems with the breed.
5. Also ask for a copy of the breeder’s ‘puppy contract’, this will tell you if the breeder has made provision for taking the puppy back if you are unable to keep it.
6. However tempting it may be, don’t necessarily buy the first puppy you see go and look at a number of litters.
7. Visit the selected breeder(s) kennels, see the mother and pups together (and father if resident), be wary if the owner of the mother has a number of different breeds with litters.
8. Do not agree to meet a breeder with a puppy other than at their breeding establishment, a reputable breeder is unlikely to suggest this approach.
9. Speak to and if possible visit the father’s kennel or home.
10. Ask for the breeder’s veterinarian and contact them if you have any health concerns.

WHAT TO EXPECT FRON A REPUTABLE BREEDER

A reputable breeder will always show you the puppies available at their breeding kennel. This will allow you to see the environment that they have been reared in. Never agree to meet someone "at a location near you for convenience" as a reputable breeder would not suggest it. If some time after buying a puppy, circumstances change and you can no longer keep it, will the person you purchased it from take it back? A reputable breeder will and may put this in writing for you. A reputable breeder will also be able to provide you with information on the pedigree of your puppy and in a lot of cases will have both the mother and father there for you to see. If there are known health problems in the breed you have chosen e.g. Hips (Dysplasia) and Eyes (Progressive Retinal Atrophy) ensure that the sire and dam have been tested for these problems and have the required documentation. If the breeder does not have these certificates, it is probable that they have not been tested and hence the risk of an affected puppy is much more likely. Reputable breeders often refer to themselves as ‘choosy’ of prospective owners of their puppies. This is simply because they are concerned that their puppies should be going to someone that has the right sort of home environment (size of garden/children/time to exercise) with an understanding of the needs and requirements of that breed. A reputable breeder will probably interview you as much as you interview them. 

BRINGING YOUR PUPPY HOME

Before you bring your puppy home find out from the breeder what brand of food it has been fed on and do not change this immediately, most good breeders will give you a supply of the puppies food, or even offer to purchase some for you.  When you bring your puppy home at about 8 weeks of age it will be fully weaned and will require feeding 3 times a day, this being gradually reduced to once daily by the time he reaches his first birthday and don't forget to give them fresh water.

As puppies can be very destructive, an expensive new bed may be inappropriate until he is a little older. It does not matter what the bed is made of, as long as it is big enough for him to stretch out, is really warm and cosy and deep enough for him to snuggle his back against the back of the bed. Puppy’s kidneys are vulnerable to draughts, so the bed should be placed in a cosy place.

Start toilet training as soon as possible. Always take them outside immediately after waking up and after each meal. They should be taken to the same place so the puppy learns to use the same spot every time, and use a command e.g. "be quick or good girl/boy". If accidents do happen in the house say "no", and take the puppy outside immediately, puppies learn very quickly and will soon get into the habit of going to the door to be let outside.

PUPPY FARMS

A Puppy Farm is the term used for Breeders who produce litter after litter of puppies purely for financial gain whilst paying little attention to breeding healthy dogs. They are keen to sell to whoever will buy, regardless of the puppies likely home environment and the potential owner’s understanding of the breed. A puppy farm may or may not be dirty but it is usually overcrowded and the dogs may be neglected or abused because the breeders can't practically handle as many dogs as they have. This type of breeder will often bring the puppy to you or meet you halfway avoiding the need to show you the conditions at their breeding establishment. It is puppies sourced in this way that are in poor health, undernourished, with a lack of socialisation and a much lower survival rate than puppies from reputable breeders.

IN THE BEGINNING......

You will be collecting your puppy after he is 6 weeks old. You must ensure before you collect him that you have a suitable crate/basket with vet bed or similar bedding in which he can sleep.  You will also need dishes, puppy chews and plenty of newspaper!

You should be provided with your puppy's pedigree, his insurance certificate, a supply of the food he has been weaned on and his diet sheet. Most breeders also supply a piece of vet bed the puppy has been used to, a worming certificate and an information booklet.

Your puppy should have been wormed at 4 and 6 weeks and your Vet will advise you when to worm him again when he has his vaccinations.  It is advisable to worm your dog at least twice yearly throughout his life.

Until your puppy is fully vaccinated it is essential to keep him away from other dogs or anywhere other dogs have been.  Parvo Virus is very contagious and puppies are very vulnerable.

TOILET TRAINING

Puppies will normally want to go out as soon as they wake up or after feeding.  It may be quite a while before they are clean at night; it is better to restrict them to a corner of the kitchen or a dog crate and put plenty of newspaper down.  Be patient - it is like potty training a baby!!

EXERCISE

We get asked more questions on the subject of exercise than any other, and this is the advice we give.  Your puppy will get enough exercise ambling around the house and garden during the first 4 months; use this time to begin basic training.  No walks over fields and parkland, think of your puppy as an 8 - 12 month old baby and give their bones a chance to grow as nature intended.  The more exercise you give your puppy at this stage, the more hyperactive he will become!  Be very careful of play with older, stronger dogs (and never leave him unattended with children) especially at the peak growing period 6 - 9 months.  Labrador puppies often think they are stronger than they are.  Be careful of letting him jump in and out of your car: train him to wait until you are ready to lift him in and out.  Please allow time for him to sleep, they need a lot of rest, especially in the early months. Give them somewhere away from other dogs and especially children. Remember he is not a toy.

BITCH PUPPIES

If you have chosen to have a bitch puppy, she will start her seasons at around 9 months old and continue at 6 monthly intervals for the rest of her life should you choose not to have her speyed. If you decide you don't want to breed from her then please wait until she has had her first season before you have her speyed.  This will give her chance to reach maturity, it is advisable to have her speyed three months after she has finished her season.

Don't be pushed into operating before her first season by your Vet - he will get your money soon enough!!

If you decide you would like to have a litter of puppies, the first step is to make arrangements with your Vet to have your bitch hip scored, he will also be able to advise you of the nearest Vet to test her eyes.  These tests are essential and need to be done before you start choosing suitors for her.  All reputable stud dog owners will ask for this information before letting you mate.

You should remember that her seasons will last for approximately three weeks from seeing the first spots of blood; she must be kept under close supervision at all times during this period if an unwanted pregnancy is to be prevented.